So you’ve decided screen printing is right for your project. Great choice!

But now you’re facing a whole new set of questions: What’s the difference between plastisol and water-based ink? How many colors can I use? Why do some shops require minimum orders? What’s a “screen charge” anyway?

After 30+ years at Merlin Embroidery, I’ve guided thousands of first-time customers through their screen printing projects. Today, I’m going to answer every question you didn’t even know you should ask.

By the end of this guide, you’ll understand the entire process, know what to expect, and be able to have confident conversations with any screen printer.

Let’s dive in.

How Screen Printing Actually Works (The Simple Explanation)

Screen printing might seem mysterious, but the basic concept is surprisingly simple.

The Process in Plain English:

Step 1: Design Separation Your design is separated into individual colors. Each color will be printed separately.

Step 2: Screen Creation For each color, we create a screen (a fine mesh stretched over a frame). Your design is burned onto the screen using light-sensitive emulsion—the design areas remain open mesh, while the rest is blocked.

Step 3: Setup Each screen is loaded onto the printing press in precise alignment. Ink is placed on each screen.

Step 4: Printing A squeegee pushes ink through the open mesh areas of each screen onto the fabric below. Each color is applied one at a time, building up your complete design.

Step 5: Curing The printed garments pass through a dryer that heats the ink to 320°F+, permanently bonding it to the fabric.

Think of it like: A sophisticated stencil system where each color is its own layer.

Why This Matters to You:

Understanding the process helps you understand:

Why there are setup costs (screen creation takes time and materials)
Why more colors cost more (each color needs its own screen and printing step)
Why there are minimum quantities (setup time is the same whether printing 12 or 120 shirts)
Why turnaround takes time (multiple steps can’t be rushed)

The Two Main Types of Ink (And When to Use Each)

Not all screen printing ink is the same. The two main types create very different results.

Plastisol Ink: The Industry Standard

What it is: PVC-based ink that sits on top of the fabric

Advantages: Extremely durable and long-lasting , Vibrant, opaque colors (especially on dark fabrics) , Works on virtually any fabric type , Doesn’t fade or crack when properly cured , Industry standard for most commercial printing

Characteristics:

Slightly raised feel on the fabric
Bright, bold colors
Excellent opacity (light colors show well on dark shirts)
Requires heat curing

Best for:

Dark-colored garments
Designs requiring bright, vibrant colors
Maximum durability requirements
Standard t-shirts and hoodies

Water-Based Ink: The Soft-Hand Alternative

What it is: Water-based ink that soaks into the fabric fibers

Advantages: Ultra-soft feel (no raised texture) , Breathable (doesn’t block fabric airflow) Vintage, worn-in appearance , Eco-friendly option , No plastic feel

Characteristics:

Becomes part of the fabric
Soft, almost undetectable feel
Slightly more muted colors
Works best on light-colored fabrics

Limitations: Less opaque (light colors on dark fabrics don’t work well) , Requires special fabric preparation , Slightly less durable than plastisol , More expensive to produce

Best for:

Light-colored garments
Athletic/performance wear where breathability matters
Vintage or distressed looks
Customers who prioritize soft feel over maximum durability

Which Should You Choose?

Choose plastisol if:

You’re printing on dark shirts
You want maximum durability
You want vibrant, bold colors
You’re on a standard budget

Choose water-based if:

You’re printing on white or light-colored shirts
Soft feel is your top priority
You want a vintage aesthetic
You’re willing to pay slightly more

Understanding Color Separations and Costs

Here’s where screen printing costs can surprise first-time customers: each color in your design adds to the cost.

Why Colors Matter:

Remember: each color requires:

A separate screen ($15-50 per screen)
A separate printing step
Additional setup time
More complexity in registration (alignment)

1-color design: One screen, one printing step = most affordable

4-color design: Four screens, four printing steps = significantly more expensive

How to Count Colors:

This confuses many customers. Here’s how to count colors in your design:

Each distinct color = one screen

Example 1: Red logo with black text = 2 colors

Example 2: Blue, white, and yellow design = 3 colors

Example 3: Full-color photograph = 4 colors (using CMYK process printing)

Important: White counts as a color when printing on dark garments (it requires its own screen and ink)

Ways to Reduce Color Costs:

Strategy 1: Simplify your design Can you achieve the same impact with fewer colors?

Strategy 2: Use the shirt color as part of your design Printing on a colored shirt? Let that color show through instead of printing it.

Strategy 3: Choose simulated process printing For photographic images, this technique uses 4-6 colors to simulate full-color printing (more affordable than true full-color separations)

At Merlin Embroidery, we’ll review your design and suggest cost-effective alternatives that maintain your vision while fitting your budget.

Minimum Order Quantities: Why They Exist

Many screen printers require minimum orders of 12-24 pieces. Here’s why:

The Economics of Screen Printing:

Setup time is the same whether printing 12 shirts or 120 shirts:

Design separation: 30-60 minutes
Screen creation: 15-30 minutes per color
Press setup and registration: 30-45 minutes
Cleanup: 15-20 minutes

Total setup time: 2-4 hours regardless of quantity

This means:

Printing 12 shirts: $10-15 per shirt
Printing 50 shirts: $6-8 per shirt
Printing 200 shirts: $4-6 per shirt

The more you print, the lower your per-piece cost because setup costs are spread across more items.

What If You Only Need a Few Items?

For small quantities (under 12), consider:

Embroidery (no minimums, often more cost-effective for small runs)
Direct-to-garment printing (digital printing with no setup costs)
Heat transfer vinyl (good for 1-5 pieces)

We’ll honestly tell you which method makes the most sense for your quantity and budget.

The Setup Process: What to Expect

Let’s walk through what happens after you place your order.

Step 1: Design Review and Art Approval

We review your artwork for:

Resolution quality (needs to be high-resolution)
Color separations
Size and placement
Technical printability

You’ll receive a proof showing:

Exact design placement
Colors to be printed
Size specifications

You must approve this proof before production begins. Changes after approval may require additional charges.

Step 2: Screen Creation

Each color in your design gets its own screen:

Screens are coated with light-sensitive emulsion
Your design is exposed onto the screen using UV light
Screens are washed out, leaving open mesh where ink will pass through
Screens are dried and prepared for printing

This process takes 1-2 business days.

Step 3: Press Setup and Test Prints

Screens are mounted on the printing press
Each color is carefully registered (aligned)
Test prints are made to ensure perfect alignment
Ink colors are mixed and tested
Adjustments are made until everything is perfect

This is why rush orders are difficult—proper setup can’t be rushed without sacrificing quality.

Step 4: Production Printing

Once everything is dialed in:

Your garments are loaded onto the press
Each color is printed in sequence
Printed items move to the dryer
Curing ensures permanent ink adhesion

Production speed: Experienced printers can produce 60-100 pieces per hour (depending on design complexity)

Step 5: Quality Control and Finishing

Every printed item is:

Inspected for print quality
Checked for proper ink curing
Folded or hung as requested
Packaged for delivery or pickup

Total timeline: 7-10 business days is standard for most orders (rush services available for additional fees)

Choosing the Right Garments for Screen Printing

The shirt you choose affects both the printing process and final results.

Fabric Content Matters:

100% Cotton: Easiest to print on Excellent ink adhesion Soft, comfortable feel Breathable. Shrinks if not pre-shrunk , Wrinkles easily

Cotton/Polyester Blends (50/50 or 60/40): More durable than 100% cotton Less shrinkage Wrinkle-resistant Retains shape better . Good for athletic/active wear Slightly less soft than 100% cotton

100% Polyester (Performance Fabrics): Moisture-wicking Lightweight and breathable Excellent for athletic wear Quick-drying . Requires special inks and techniques Can be more expensive to print

Tri-Blends (Cotton/Poly/Rayon): Ultra-soft, premium feel, Excellent drape , Vintage aesthetic , Very popular for retail-quality shirts. More expensive Requires careful printing technique

Garment Color Considerations:

Light-colored shirts (white, cream, light gray):

Easiest to print on
All ink colors show vibrantly
Fewer ink layers needed
Most affordable option

Dark-colored shirts (black, navy, dark gray):

Require white underbase (extra layer)
Need more ink for opacity
Slightly higher cost
Still produce excellent results

Bright-colored shirts (red, royal blue, kelly green):

Can be tricky for certain ink colors
May require additional layers
Discuss with your printer before finalizing

Garment Quality Levels:

Economy/Budget ($3-5 per shirt):

Thinner fabric
Basic construction
Good for one-time events
May not hold up to heavy washing

Standard/Mid-Range ($6-10 per shirt):

Good quality fabric
Comfortable fit
Durable for regular wear
Best value for most projects

Premium/Retail ($12-20+ per shirt):

Soft, high-quality fabrics
Fashion-forward fits
Excellent durability
Worth it for retail sales or special projects

At Merlin Embroidery, we work with multiple suppliers and can source whatever quality level fits your budget and needs.

Design Tips for Screen Printing Success

Not all designs translate well to screen printing. Here’s how to set yourself up for success.

Resolution Requirements:

Vector files are best:

.AI (Adobe Illustrator)
.EPS
.PDF (with embedded fonts)

Raster files need high resolution:

Minimum 300 DPI at actual print size
.PNG or .PSD preferred over .JPG

Avoid: Low-resolution images pulled from websites, Stretched or distorted logos , Blurry or pixelated artwork

If you only have a low-resolution file, we can often recreate it as vector artwork (additional art fees may apply).

Design Size Guidelines:

Standard placements:

Full front: 10″-12″ wide maximum
Left chest: 3″-4″ wide
Full back: 11″-13″ wide maximum
Sleeve: 3″-4″ wide

Remember: Larger isn’t always better. Oversized designs can look awkward and feel uncomfortable.

Color and Detail Considerations:

What works well: Bold, solid colors , Clear, readable text (minimum 1/4″ tall) , Simple graphics with clean lines , High-contrast designs

What’s challenging: Extremely fine details (under 1/8″) , Very thin lines , Tiny text , Gradients (require halftones) , Photographic images (require process printing)

Pro tip: Show us your design before finalizing it. We can suggest adjustments that will improve printability and final results.

Common Screen Printing Questions Answered

“Can you match my exact brand colors?”

Short answer: Very close, but not always perfectly.

Long answer: We use Pantone Matching System (PMS) to get as close as possible. However, fabric texture, ink type, and printing process can cause slight variations from digital colors.

Best practice: Provide PMS color codes, and we’ll mix ink to match. For critical color matching, we can provide a strike-off (test print) for approval.

“How long will the printing last?”

With proper care: Years, even decades.

Factors affecting longevity:

Ink type (plastisol lasts longer than water-based)
Proper curing during production
Washing and care practices
Garment quality

Care instructions we recommend:

Wash inside-out in cold water
Avoid bleach and harsh detergents
Tumble dry low or hang dry
Don’t iron directly on the print

“Can you print on items I provide?”

Sometimes, but with caveats:

We can print on customer-provided items if:

They’re clean and new (or like-new)
They’re suitable for screen printing
You accept responsibility for any printing issues related to garment quality

We typically don’t recommend it because:

We can’t guarantee results on unknown garment quality
Used items may have residues that affect ink adhesion
We can’t replace items if something goes wrong

Usually, it’s more cost-effective and reliable to purchase garments through us.

“What’s the difference between one-sided and two-sided printing?”

One-sided printing: Design on front OR back only

Two-sided printing: Design on both front AND back

Cost difference: Two-sided printing costs more because:

Garments must be loaded and printed twice
Additional setup and registration time
More ink and materials

Typical pricing: Two-sided printing adds $3-6 per shirt depending on design complexity

“Can you do rush orders?”

Yes, but with limitations:

Standard turnaround: 7-10 business days

Rush options:

5-7 days: Usually available with minimal rush fee
3-4 days: Available for additional rush charges
1-2 days: Rarely possible, very expensive

Why rush orders cost more:

We must rearrange production schedule
May require overtime labor
Less time for quality control
Higher risk of errors

Best practice: Plan ahead whenever possible. Rush fees can add 25-50% to your total cost.

What Screen Printing Should Cost

To help you evaluate quotes, here are realistic price ranges for quality screen printing:

Basic 1-Color Print (Front Only):

Quantity 24: $12-15 per shirt (including garment)

Quantity 50: $9-12 per shirt

Quantity 100: $7-10 per shirt

Quantity 250+: $6-8 per shirt

Multi-Color Print (Front Only):

Add $1-2 per shirt for each additional color

Example: 3-color design on 50 shirts = $12-16 per shirt

Setup/Screen Charges:

Per color: $15-50 (one-time fee)

Art/separation fees: $25-75 (if applicable)

These fees are one-time. Reorders using the same screens only pay printing costs.

Two-Sided Printing:

Add $3-6 per shirt for back printing

Remember: These prices include both printing AND the garment. Some shops quote printing only, then add garment costs separately.

Red Flags: Signs of a Low-Quality Screen Printer

Unwilling to show physical samples Photos can be deceiving. Quality printers proudly show their work.
Can’t explain their process If they can’t answer basic questions about inks, screens, and curing, they may lack experience.
No art approval process Printing without your approval of placement, size, and colors is asking for problems.
Prices significantly below market rates Quality screen printing has real costs. Unrealistically low prices mean corners are being cut.
No minimum quantities Screen printing economics require minimums. If there’s no minimum, they’re likely using a different (often inferior) printing method.
Guaranteed same-day or next-day turnaround Proper screen printing can’t be rushed without sacrificing quality.
Won’t discuss garment brands or quality The shirt matters as much as the printing. Quality printers care about both.

Your Screen Printing Checklist

Before placing your order, make sure you have:

High-resolution artwork (vector files preferred)
Clear idea of quantity needed (order extra for future needs—reorders cost more per piece)
Garment style and color selected (we can help with this)
Size breakdown (how many S, M, L, XL, etc.)
Realistic timeline (7-10 days minimum)
Budget established (including setup fees)
Delivery or pickup preference determined

Missing something? No problem. We’ll help you figure it out.

Let’s Print Something Amazing

Screen printing is an art and a science. When done right, it creates vibrant, durable, professional apparel that represents your brand beautifully.

At Merlin Embroidery, we’ve been perfecting our screen printing process for over 30 years. We know what works, what doesn’t, and how to guide you toward the best results for your specific project.

Ready to get started?

Call us at : 619-884-9712

Email : merlinemb@gmail.com

Visit us at : 8240 Parkway Dr UNIT 104, La Mesa, CA 91942

Bring your ideas, your questions, your artwork (even if it’s just a sketch on a napkin). We’ll walk you through the entire process and create screen printed apparel you’ll be proud to wear.

Have more screen printing questions? Drop them in the comments and I’ll answer them personally!

That completes the three blogs on educating customers about embroidery vs. screen printing!

Would you like me to create more blogs on different topics to enhance your business, or would you like something else like social media content to promote these blogs?

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